Vol.198_Rick Owens
Rick Owens
Interviewd by OH MINJI
From Paris, France
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When you begin a project, what is the first criterion you set for yourself?
I GAUGE HOW I CAN FURTHER MY PERSONAL AGENDA OF PROMOTING TOLERANCE OF DIFFERENT AESTHETICS WHICH MIGHT IN ITS OWN SMALL WAY INFLUENCE TOLERANCE IN PEOPLE'S JUDGEMENT OF OTHER PEOPLE.
Where does a collection usually begin for you?
VENUE, MUSIC AND SHOES. IN THAT ORDER. AND SHUTTING OUT ALL THE NOISE TO FOCUS ON WHAT I SELFISHLY WANT TO SEE. I REVIEW WHERE I LEFT OFF LAST COLLECTION AND WHAT FEELS LIKE MOVING FORWARD.
What kind of child were you?
SOFT, OVERLY SENSITIVE AND UNPREPARED FOR LIFE'S CONFLICTS. I WAS AN ONLY CHILD THAT WAS EASILY DISTURBED BY DISCORD AND CONFRONTATION.
Your garments often seem to affect the wearer’s posture and attitude. Is that something you intentionally consider?
I THINK I PREFER ARCHITECTURE OVER SURFACE DECORATION. I WANT TO WORK FROM THE INSIDE OUT. I WANT TO CHANGE MY BONE STRUCTURE AND RADIATE LOVE.
When working, how do you decide how far to push something?
NO ONE'S GOING TO BELIEVE ME BUT EVEN I AGREE THAT THERE IS A POINT WHERE SOMETHING BECOMES TOO MUCH. OF COURSE, I GUESS MY LINE IS FURTHER OUT THERE THAN A LOT OF PEOPLE. IT'S HARD TO DEFINE BUT IT’S JUST INSTINCT I GUESS. ONE DAY I MIGHT MISJUDGE AND ALIENATE MORE PEOPLE THAN I ATTRACT.
How would you describe the state of the collection you are currently working on?
SOFT, TACTILE AND DELICATE. AND MAYBE TENDER.
At what point did clothing, for you, stop being “fashion” and become something else?
I HAVE ALWAYS THOUGHT OF FASHION AS COMMUNICATION AND COMMUNICATING IS WHAT LIFE IS ABOUT. I WANTED TO BE AN ARTIST WHEN I WAS YOUNG BUT I WAS TURNED OFF BY INTELLECTUAL GATEKEEPING. I TURNED TO SOMETHING MORE IMMEDIATE AND PERSONAL WHICH IS WHAT PEOPLE WEAR TO TELL OTHERS WHO THEY ARE. THIS FELT MORE PUNK ROCK THAN NAVIGATING THE ART GALLERY SYSTEM.
What does a typical day look like for you?
VERY STRICT. I AM CONSTANTLY STUDYING WAYS TO MOVE FORWARD IN A LOGICAL AND PRACTICAL WAY, HOW TO CONTROL MY EMOTIONS MORE AND HOW TO BE OF MORE SERVICE TO THE WORLD. I FAIL REPEATEDLY AND PICK MYSELF UP AND START OVER. IT'S A SILLY LITTLE GAME AND AS GOOD AS ANY OTHER.
What have you been most interested in lately?
SOFTNESS AND LOVELINESS.
Do the people you spend time with influence your work?
ANYTHING THAT CROSSES MY PATH INFLUENCES MY WORK. MY PERCEPTIONS, MY MISPERCEPTIONS, I APPRECIATE EVERYTHING.
When speaking with others, have you ever felt that your way of thinking operates differently from more conventional perspectives? Was there a moment when you became aware of that?
I AM USUALLY MORE CONSCIOUS OF ALL THE FEARS , HOPES AND DELUSIONS WE ALL HAVE IN COMMON. WE ALL HAVE OUR OWN SUPERPOWER- MINE IS JUST BEING ABLE TO FIND A STRAIGHT LINE FROM POINT A TO POINT B WHICH CAN ALSO MAKE ME VERY TERSE, UN-NUANCED AND COMPLETELY TEDIOUS.
In your recent project with Moncler, the idea of physical contact stood out strongly. What was the most important element for you in that work?
PROMOTING UNLIMITED WARMTH AND CONNECTION DURING A VERY FRACTURED TIME.
The project presents a structure where different relationships intersect. How do you think about the boundaries between relationships?
SEEING ANYBODY CONNECT WITH WARMTH AND VULNERABILITY AND AN OPEN HEART IS WHAT I WOULD LIKE TO SEE MORE OF SO THAT IS WHAT I WANT TO CONTRIBUTE.
As you prepare for your next show in Paris, what are you trying to push further this time?
I WANT SOMETHING MODEST AND GRAND AND REFINED AND RAW AND SOPHISTICATED AND CRUDE AND FUNNY AND HEARTBREAKING. WISH ME LUCK.
Are there any designers or brands from Korea that you find interesting?
I WISH I HAD TIME TO EXPLORE MORE, I AM SURE I WOULD.
Have you ever felt that your work resonates particularly strongly with audiences in Korea? Why do you think that is?
I’M ALWAYS SURPRISED MY WORK RESONATES WITH ANYONE AT ALL.
In Korea, brands that maintain a punk or non mainstream approach are quite rare, and those who do often face real challenges in sustaining their work. How do you view this kind of difficulty in maintaining such a direction?
I ALWAYS PLANNED TO BE POOR BUT TO DO EXACTLY WHAT I WANTED. INDEPENDENCE WAS ENOUGH OF A SUCCESS TO ME. GETTING THIS FAR WAS BEYOND MY IMAGINATION AND I AM AFRAID I AM TERRIBLY SPOILED NOW.
If you were no longer making clothes, what do you think you would be doing instead?
I WOULD LIVE ON AN EMPTY BEACH AND DANCE IN THE MOONLIGHT EVERY NIGHT.
If your work were to be described as an action rather than a word, what kind of action would it be?
FAINTING
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